Cream Bath – Indonesian style

Try this anywhere in Indonesia. A divine treatment called Cream Bath. It is neither creamy nor is it a bath.  Instead it is a traditional massage therapy from Indonesia. It is a dough kneader for your head in discrete steps.

1. First they wash your hair.

2. They apply a hair spa product i.e traditional oils, commercial hair spa products (I never knew there is such a thing)

3. Then they go work your head – this is intense, near ecstatically painful head massage. To give you an idea of the horsepower of this massage, imagine your scalp folds lifting off and losing touch with the skull and then plopping down before the masseuse moves to another part. It is divine. Almost druggie.

4. Then they apply the same strong-finger-point and pull-skin technique of massage over your shoulder and back.

5. When you have dozed off, they steam you

6. Wash off the spa product

7. Blow dry and….slink off.

So, Cicarang is truly an industrial zone?!

It has been hours of my first trip in Indonesia to a tiny godforsaken place called Cicarang, an hour outside Jakarta. The airport says a lot about current economy in Indo-screaming ads on banks offering “dollar savings” (wonder how far THIS currency goes these days?) and “private Swiss banking” and cash transfers…basically throughout recent history the local currency Rupaih has yo-yo’ed and this afternoon, it stood at 9000 Rupaih to the US dollar.

Anyhow, so here I am checking into a discreet business hotel in Cicarang, which is primarily an IT and Industrial park. The road to Cicarang was wonderful-full of slums, town life, poverty and happiness blended, basically like back home in India. It was refreshing to escape the manufactured loveliness of downtown Bangkok.

The receptionist , on my questioning, “So, can I explore an interesting spot in Cicarang?”  helpfully responded by saying there was a “branded store” on the left hand side of the hotel.

From my carefully sealed windows, which I pry open, I see slums, mud streets, threadlike roads and the smoking Indonesians.

I dug in my heels in a business hotel obviously aimed at men i.e no mirrors and geometry gone awry with tall tables and beds. Room service was ordered after a deep meditation of the menu brochure containing mesmeric, poetic words like Cumi Kalimantan and Soto Madura. The former are squid rings stuffed with chicken and the latter is noodle soup. The guesswork was expensive and am now laid down with a bad stomach pain! Ah! the pleasures of business travel.

 

The Turning of the Sun….

A million cultures celebrated the New Year on some day in the past couple of weeks. It was Ugadi in South India, Sankranti in Western India (my ethnicity) and here in Thailand, it was Songkran. Songkran is derived from the Sanskrit Sankranti or the “Turning of the Sun”. This festival is marked by a joyous water festival in Thailand. Morning prayers give way to raucous, stunningly refreshing water fights, soaking of Buddhas, beautiful parades, traditional lustrous water ( a blend of Nagchampa flowers and saffron) in temples.

My in laws are here and we went to the best place to be for Songkran which is Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand. In the afternoons, peaceful parades of ancient Buddha statues meandered through the streets (ancient city ruled by the Mengrai dynasty), lined by rural Thais holding the lustrous waters to bathe the Buddha. Later we two purchased water cannons and crossed the city moat where the farangs and Thais alike were engaged in what can only be described as an out and out insane water fight. And no alcohol! and such ecstasy! Truly there is a hope for mankind. Later drenched, exhausted and no stopping of water, water everywhere, we halted for a meal of catfish (me) and veg curry (him).Yet throughout these strange distractions, it was tough to banish my supreme and much more cancerous despondencies that seem to be lurking few layers beneath for quite a while. I have been trying to diagnose this- despondency, detachment, loss and sorrow or it disaffection? names are another distraction, a game of wordplay which takes me even further from facing This Thing squarely in the face. It is hard to see external causes of it – married, with a swell career, family and this lovely country and  I tend to admonish myself to kick myself into a neat package , if not to look good, at least to ensure each present moment is wrapped up and sent back as packed pellets into the past.

I think I have realized one thing kinda several decades late in my life. Or rather, I knew it all along but often this moose in not on the table chomping its way into upma: that I have zero.zero, 0.0 social intelligence. Put it simply: I wilt in the midst of people like a cactus left to water. Somehow my oxygen is solitude and maybe equally electric people. As I age, I do try (if there is such a thing) to be ’social’ and I think I am quite presentable actually. (remind me to congratulate myself). But, try being an Asian , living in Asia, married to one of the most socially intelligent beings I have known ever (seriously, my partner engages and draws in people) and you realize this conundrum. But, again this is also a distraction and I am not sure is the only reason why I feel This Thing….letting it simmer for now.

Grandmother

Mention Grandmothers and gentle souls with snow-white fluffy hair and deep wrinkles come to mind. The word “buddhi ke baal” used for sugar candy was perfectly literal. They all adore their grand children, are ailing, carry the torch for a long-dead husband, pray more than they sleep. Yet, often one comes across Grandmothers that shatter this myth.My mother’s mother is one of them and even now I don’t know a lot about her. She bore 7 children. Yet despite vociferous denials by my mother, it appeared she had divided her love by 7 for each. Haughty, highly accomplished (an educator , a social worker and a freedom fighter), sharp-witted, multi-lingual , she was a tall woman who walked speedily and had a sharp tongue saved for choicest listeners, sometimes her husband and my quiet grandfather. She wrote letters all the time and we still have her blue inland letters adorned by her marathi script. She wore stylish glasses with pointy corners, wore the nine-yard with just that tiny edge of practical ease, wore enough gold to get by in a social milieu, and the one time I saw her pray for an extended period was on the death anniversary of her son each year. This was a loss she bore stoically. The rest of the family remembers in acute details the agonizing days and hours leading to the death by kidney failure of their loved brother in 1956. Yet Grandma was silent. Getting up to make tea. Later in life she traveled to visit her myriad grandchildren, once again, spreading her wisdom and literary insights and feminist advice in Marathi and English to nonplussed listeners in places as diverse as Bihar where I grew up to Lexington, Kentucky where my other cousins lived I found this these words by Kamaladevi Chattopadhyaya on her Grandma and many things seemed familiar. Here they are:

Memories of my Granny

by Kamaladevi Chattopadhyaya

 In my imagination, my grandmother, my mother’s mother, was a colossus who strode across my life. She was one of the several unusual women that our country has produced from time to time. Though a mother of seven, she seemed emotionally rather detached as though settled on a mountain top, while here progeny and their own brood with a myriad problems tossed around below. This capacity to be still, to be relaxed, full of a silence that was pregnant not empty, which stirred me, my mother explained, came of deep meditation. I was stirred by an interest in it, hoped this would soothe my restless spirit, and Mother tried to guide me. It did me help. Grandmother’s absorbing interest was in books and learning. The main hall served as a library where every afternoon she sat with a few sagacious looking gentlemen, as one of them read from the books piled up. Then they went into discussions. The scene fascinated me and I liked to sit in the group wanting to be one of them though I could not follow them. When no one was around I would struggle with one of the books and pretend to read it, and it gave me rare pleasure. Seeing my keen interest, grandmother encouraged me with a grin of approval. “Books are lifelong friends,” she said, “and will stay with you in faith, teach you many truths, and enrich your mind.” Gradually she tried to open up my mind with short chats “taste the tiny drop of its essence and you will continue to linger on it,” as she put it. It was only later that I grasped the full import of it, for I realized the “tiny drops” as she described were the real essence of our philosophy, the foundation from which flowed a way of life. Thus was I provided a lasting background of tradition to lend value and flavour to the varied facets in my life. She was amongst the unusual in other ways too. Earlier she had travelled all over the country with her husband and though she was now alone and well advanced in age, she still continued her travels, visiting her daughters. The railway lines were only just being laid and had come within a hundred miles of us; nevertheless, she travelled alone by boat, by bullock cart, and even on foot! The journey from home started by crossing a river in a boat, usually by night, stretching out through the length of the boat and going off to sleep. The boatmen were Moplahs, a sturdy and fiery community generally forbidding looking. Further there were in fact, several more rivers to be crossed as also jogging in bullock carts. She came back from these trips in radiant spirits, though physically rather wan. “Some women think that I am a bad woman because I go alone and put myself in the hands of the Moplahs,” she once told me. She described the boatmen as also cart drivers as gallant who took care of her with respect for her age. Today as I travel by plane, train or car and get mercilessly pushed around, I tell myself I should be a teeny, weeny chip of that old block. One indelible last memory I have of her is when her only son died. She sat dry eyed, aloof, a figure of strength, while all the sobbing and wailing went on around.